AND just to make sure, if you dont want any leaks, put teflon tape on the upper half of the screw, and put a touch of epoxy on the for good measure

Alrighty, now that it sounds like we have the valve situation figured out, there were some other questions that I had planned on asking about the cannon's construction. We really don't want to buy a $45 thread tapping set, can we just wrap a bunch of teflon tape around the fittings, pressure gaige, ...

ah yes, ive heard of the mauler valve from bcarms.com is it? ... hopefully it will offer the same performance as the supah

My friends and I this summer have been dreaming up a design for a new cannon that we were wanting to make and the valve that we wanted to use was off the spudtech website. Now that it is closed, we dont know where to get one and i came here because (correct me if im wrong) I think spudfiles is affil...

solving the problem with the same combustion chamber and two barrel is simple ... just install a ball valve behind each barrel so that whichever one you want to fire you leave open ... and close the one you dont ... also what would make this more halo-istic is if you made it to where the second roun...

(now ya made me feel dumb ) :? wow .... thats interesting .... well lol i just added a 1 ft section to the chamber, so the barrel needs to be aruond 20 ft?? .... i want it to be portable ... i guess theres a way i could make it to where the barrel is a few pieces of PVC ... hmm ... to the drawing bo...

really?? a 15 foot barrel ??? .... am i underbarreling that much??

ok i have it all wired up and it works great!! ... i just test fired it about 15 minutes ago

well my chamber is 3 ft long 4 inch pipe reduced down to a 1ft section of 3 inch pipe reduced down to a 5 ft long 2 inch barrel ... and im not using that much starter fluid ... i spray about .3 seconds and i fire it and i get that kind of sound

its pretty solid .. i maybe screwed it in about three or four threads and did the ol's shake it really hard test and it seemed fine.... note that the shake it realy hard test is for the most dire of conditions (like dropping the cannon from waist level etc.) ... im going to put some CA super glue in...

ok well i got the stuff and i started work and heres how i did it: 1. drilled a hole close ot the screws that open up the case. 2. inserted a screw thru 2 layers of PVC and into the case, just enough to hold it firmly 3.wrapped the end of a wire around a nut and made it touch against the motor casin...

the part of the sabot on front of the ammo i think ur talking is the concave part?? ... thats so that when it exits the barrel the sabot splits apart and falls while the projectile keeps flying

if you are looking for a low boom then go for a 5 ft long 2 inch barrel that has a reducer backwards on the end (widener i guess) ... it projects the sound plus if you use the right amount of fuel you can "out-bass" most sound systems

when i built my first cannon i was able to spray in a bit of starter fluid and i took a hose from a compressed air tank and sprayed about 2 secs. of air and when i fired it (without a projectile) it would make this really low pitched low bass bang that rattled the windows of my house...now after i i...

ok well i went out to the hardware store and i bought a bunch of hardware to : mount it, wire it, turn it on and off .... i was wondering if there was a special way to drill a hole in ti to mount it centered in teh chamber or something along those lines ... also how many shots have you fired with it...