For a small bore pneumatic(1/4") I decided this will work best-
BROWN=Wood with 1/4" holes drilled in the middle(Allows the tube to twist and slide freely)
GREY-1.4" tubing
BLACK-Male and female fittings(Twist to close/fire and the opposite direction to open/load)
My loading mechanism(WARNING:Very CRUDE)
- AnotherSnappedLine
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- TADAH! Relish the crudeness.
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- jrrdw
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We call this set up a "breach load", but with your ammo being that far from the valve you lose some power. We call that "dead space". It's better to have the ammo as close to the valve as you can. But your set up will still work.
Why don't you post your design in one thread so all the information can be in one place.
Why don't you post your design in one thread so all the information can be in one place.
- AnotherSnappedLine
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Dead space as in the gap between the 2 barrels? They're designed to twist together.
Or did you mean dead space because the barrel is far from a valve? If you meant that, it's just a crude drawing, the valve would be a QEV <an inch behind the pellet.
[/img]
Or did you mean dead space because the barrel is far from a valve? If you meant that, it's just a crude drawing, the valve would be a QEV <an inch behind the pellet.
[/img]
- AnotherSnappedLine
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Here is the revision-[/img]
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- Gun Freak
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Why even space it at all? Put the left threaded fitting right after the piece of wood. That was there's no dead space.
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One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
- AnotherSnappedLine
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Ok, that makes sense. Does performance really change that much with dead space?
- Crna Legija
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its not a crazy improvent if you only making it a inch difference but it would make the over all look better and simpler with better prefomance
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