Great idea with the gel, I have to try that sometime.
Do you have a nick-name for your cannon because the name is a bit hard to swallow.

Almost - it's race tape stuff. You know the stuff that has string in it as well. Kevlar....now that's an idea!! I have a cousin that does stuff in that..hmmKris.Is.Awesome wrote: Hah... Nevermind. I see it's just Duct tape...
No, it can fire semi auto but it has no ammo autoloading mech. It's bolt action. Still better than a standard muzzle loader IMO.frankrede wrote:Correct me if I am wrong ,but is it semi-auto?
In the video it seemed that way.
Where did you read that??? Fatal depends on where it hits. Not exactly going to be faltal if it hit you in the arm is it. Ballistics gel purely just gives an indication of penetration into human flesh and does not include bone. Although bone can be cast into it if you want.M3NT4L wrote:One inch in ballistics gel is about a 79 percent fatal hit. The penetration you hit was fkin scary thats a waaaaaaaaaay powerfull "potato gun".
To ensure accurate results, immediately prior to use, the gelatin block is "calibrated" by firing into it a standard .177 caliber (4.5 mm) steel BB, from an air gun over a chronograph into the gelatin, and the depth of penetration measured. While the exact calibration methods vary slightly, the calibration method used by the INS National Firearms Unit is fairly typical. It requires a velocity of 600 ± 10 f/s (183 ± 3 m/s), and a BB penetration between 3.25 and 3.75 inches (8.3 to 9.5 cm).
Yes, it's identical to that. No spring however, it's just free moving.Jolly Roger wrote:Hey just wondering about your design, I still can't figure out how it works... I've attached a simple sketch, anything like it? The red is the piston, blue is the pressurized areas. (The air leaks around the piston as in a normal piston based cannon)... It's got me puzzled...
Yeah, i thought about that but decided that i'd rather not make a new barrel and it would get pretty hard because of the fact that it's double skinned. I'll have a bash at a revised design reducing the volume of air between each washer by about 1/2. Hopefully that will give good results by reducing turbulance in the silencer.Brian the brain wrote:For the silencer it might be a better idea to drill holes in the barrel( get a longer one to keep the same effective lenght) and put the silencer casing over it.Fill the lot up with soft foam.The kind you'll find in a matress.
This worked for me.
Built out of aluminium it should be very sweet.