Co-axial automatic loader?
- boilingleadbath
- Staff Sergeant 2
- Posts: 1635
- Joined: Sat Mar 12, 2005 10:35 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, USA
We would like to see your design, if you don't mind.
I can think of a few ways to get a magazine to the barrel. A tee in the chamber matching up with a tee in the barrel. Make a gap in the chamber so part of the barrel sticks out, then reroute the chamber around the barrel tee.
"There isn't a problem in the world that can't be solved by the proper application of explosives"
Atlantis has got the idea. I will get a drawing made up with the general idea. How do I post pictures? (I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, so feel free to post a link to another thread on it if need be. In the mean time I will search for such info.) If it is easier, I can just email it to someone to post on here.
Believe it or not I have actually built such a gun. Using both a tee in the chamber and the barrel. I never got the piston to work, so that is at which stage I stopped. Ill snap some pics tomorrow or the day after that.
Ok, the parts are as follows:
red = chamber and upward T to allow magazine to stick out
green = barrel and upward T for magazine
blue = piston
black = exhaust valve
violet/pink = schrader valve
yellow stripe in piston = equalization hole through piston
Pimpmann22 - why did the piston not work? Did it not seal against the breech of the barrel? If so, did you try bracing the breech with atleast 3 bolts coming in through the wall of the chamber?
A primary schrader valve may be needed on the camber side of the piston also. I was thinking that filling it from the exhaust valve side of the piston would help seal it quicker than from the chamber side. The rubber membrane on the face of the piston would have a loose flap over the equalization hole which would act as a one way valve.
For sustained fire, an air chuck would be used for the air chamber on both sides of the piston (insead of schrader valves), and the exhaust valve would be cycled for semi auto, and the air chuck on exhaust side of the piston (in chamber wall) would have a valve to shut off air flow to this area, in order to keep piston open for full auto fire.
Selective fire could be easily controlled by using 2 electric valves. 1 for the air line going to the back side of the piston (in order to close it). The other vlave for exhausting the air in the rear of the chamber, which unseats the piston from the barrel.
Yes it would be connected to an air compressor for auto fire.
Mr Crowley thanks for the photo hosting info[/img]
red = chamber and upward T to allow magazine to stick out
green = barrel and upward T for magazine
blue = piston
black = exhaust valve
violet/pink = schrader valve
yellow stripe in piston = equalization hole through piston
Pimpmann22 - why did the piston not work? Did it not seal against the breech of the barrel? If so, did you try bracing the breech with atleast 3 bolts coming in through the wall of the chamber?
A primary schrader valve may be needed on the camber side of the piston also. I was thinking that filling it from the exhaust valve side of the piston would help seal it quicker than from the chamber side. The rubber membrane on the face of the piston would have a loose flap over the equalization hole which would act as a one way valve.
For sustained fire, an air chuck would be used for the air chamber on both sides of the piston (insead of schrader valves), and the exhaust valve would be cycled for semi auto, and the air chuck on exhaust side of the piston (in chamber wall) would have a valve to shut off air flow to this area, in order to keep piston open for full auto fire.
Selective fire could be easily controlled by using 2 electric valves. 1 for the air line going to the back side of the piston (in order to close it). The other vlave for exhausting the air in the rear of the chamber, which unseats the piston from the barrel.
Yes it would be connected to an air compressor for auto fire.
Mr Crowley thanks for the photo hosting info[/img]
Here is a similar design I came up with a while back: http://spudshot.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=82
It has similar loading of a single shot bb gun but is designed to be fully auto.
It has similar loading of a single shot bb gun but is designed to be fully auto.
Forever dreaming...
- Brian the brain
- Moderator
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Some nice pictures above, I will have to wait for photos, before I can post anything that looks good. Eventaully, I would like to post video also. Any ideas on how to get it from 8mm to a computer?
Now, has anyone actually built and tested one of these designs yet?
Also, for auto loaders - has anyone tried using the vented exhaust air to feed ammo?
Now, has anyone actually built and tested one of these designs yet?
Also, for auto loaders - has anyone tried using the vented exhaust air to feed ammo?
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- Private 2
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:16 pm
Hey Demon, I think a problem in your designs is that during the firing stage, the piston is pushed back and it allows ammo to fall back into the barrel. Also air can escape through the ammo clip. Unless you want the gun to be fully auto.
I think BT1969's idea is the simplest for single shots.
I think BT1969's idea is the simplest for single shots.
Why would you need a ram rod or anything??? Since there is no explosion in the barrel like real guns, there is no reason to seal off the breach.
I know from experience and it works flawlessly. The best way to do an auto reload system is to find a T joint that is flush to the inside of the barrel. Connect the crap together and drill two holes at the base of the T joint that is just the right size for one unit of ammo to fall into the barrel. Stuff an ear plug half way up the hole and tape it in with duct tape...I love duct tape...Put a screw on cap to the stock so that it is sealed for firing.
With an electric solenoid valve you can get like 10 shots without reloading the air chamber.
It doesnt make any sence to seal off the breach every time!
I know from experience and it works flawlessly. The best way to do an auto reload system is to find a T joint that is flush to the inside of the barrel. Connect the crap together and drill two holes at the base of the T joint that is just the right size for one unit of ammo to fall into the barrel. Stuff an ear plug half way up the hole and tape it in with duct tape...I love duct tape...Put a screw on cap to the stock so that it is sealed for firing.
With an electric solenoid valve you can get like 10 shots without reloading the air chamber.
It doesnt make any sence to seal off the breach every time!
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- Corporal 5
- Posts: 913
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:54 pm
cool idea demon almost reminds me of the method with a hammer in paintball guns but not quite very interesting...)DEMON( wrote:I was thinking more of something like this............
Quite simple, it is an adaptation of my previous design.
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