SpudFiles

<div align="center">ELECTRIC SOLENOID CANNON

Provided By - <a href="http://members.aol.com/sph911/spud/">ht ... 1/spud/</a>

This launcher is the typical pneumatic type. It is often referred to as over-under type or bazooka (because of its shape and launch position). Most electronic pneumatic launchers are modifications of this design, incorporating different barrels, elbows, and pipes. The following is my design.

<b>Theory Of Operation</b>

This launcher has a compression chamber. Air is pumped into this chamber by means of a tire valve. A sprinkler solenoid valve stops the flow from the chamber into the barrel. When the desired pressure is reached, the valve is opened by means of an electronic circuit. Exact pressures can be reached for each shot by measuring with an ordinary tire-gauge. Air then rushes out of the chamber, through the (often small) valve, and into the barrel, pushing the projectile out, to great joy.

<B>MATERIALS.</B>

48" SCH 40 1 1/2" PVC Pipe
45" SCH 40 2" PVC Pipe
1' SCH 40 1" PVC Pipe
1 1/2" to 1" Reducing Bushing
2" to 1" Reducing Bushing
1 1/2" Coupling
2" Coupling
2" End cap
1" PVC to Male Thread X2
Milton Chrome Tire Valve
Rainbird Solenoid Sprinkler Valve
Large Hose Clamp and Block of Wood
Electronics Box (See Below)

<b>Assembly</b>


First cut all pieces to length and clean the ends to be glued. Drill a hole in the end cap for the tire valve and screw it in place. Also, taper the firing barrel to shave the spuds. Glue all red areas, and the blue areas inside the couplings. Obviously, do not glue the threads. Glue the pipes to the couplings and let them sit overnight. When ready, screw the pipes to the valve. Teflon tape can be used to insure an airtight seal, however be careful not to tighten too much, or the pipes will be very hard to get off (I had my pipes break due to a fall, and the remaining threaded pieces were extremely hard to grasp. Usually once around the male threads with the tape is good).

The compression chamber is 2" x 45". The control box features a triple safety: a labeled on-off toggle switch, and two buttons which must be pressed simultaneously to get the cannon to fire. The barrel I use most is a 1 1/2" x 48" barrel. I tapered the end to help cut the spud into shape. I also have a two inch barrel.

The tire valve to fill the chamber is a Milton valve. To the right is a photo of the package and valve. I picked this up at an auto store for 5 bucks. The valve is chrome and one that you bolt in place. The washers and nuts are included, you just drill a tap hole on the end cap of the chamber for the valve.

To make the control box, use Radio Shack parts. Assemble it as shown in the cannon plans, or modify switch location to suit your preferences. This is just a guide, and two switches are not necessary, one is sufficient. All joints should be soldered for maximum efficiency. The valve operates at 24 volts DC so the three 9 volts are ample power, being the valve is opened for only a few seconds at a time.

Set the control box against the firing barrel and use a small hose clamp to secure it. Then insert a block of wood or something similar near the business end of the launcher and use a large hose clamp to secure them.

Altogether, this cannon cost approximately $47. $12 for valve, $15 for pipe (sold in 10' sections) and fittings, and about $12 for batteries and electronic parts. It has been a while since I built this, so I cannot give you a more accurate price guide yet.

Provided By - <a href="http://members.aol.com/sph911/spud/">ht ... /</a></div>

I actually made one of these. It is quick to assemble, easy to find parts for, and launches about 180 yards! I completely commend you on your excelent work.

I never made a PVC cannon before, therefore I don't quite understand how yer system works. If yer using a tire valve, "doesn't that mean you need to use a air compressor" to build up pressure in the tubes? Please explain and or comment about this? I have it in my mind that these air cannons are PORTABLE, but does one still need a air compressor? --Robert.

you can use a compressor, or if the chamber is small enough you can use a bike pump, or if you have a co2 regulator hooked up for spudding you can use that too

You can also use a 12 volt emergency pump, but the battery runs low after only a few uses.

if u want to go portable just make one of spudshot's co2 set-ups http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=609 or build a combustion with an on-board propane meter http://www.burntlatke.com/lp.html. both are very portable

How many shots do you think you could get from a co2 tank?

it all depends on the volume of the co2 tank and the volume of the chamber

nice clean but effective design I like the wirering

I hope you don't mind but I used your electric solenoid idea to build my own cannon. At first it was basically the same cannon but I am slowly modding it into a new creation. Well, thanks again for the plans and I hope that soon I will have some awesome pictures to show yall of "The General."

looks simple and powerful jus the way i like it

im new to all of this, so this might be common sense to you all, but is there any necessary modifications you need to make to the solenoid valve before you build the gun? or can you build it using the valve straight out of the box?

You can use the sprinkler valve right out of the box, or you can pnuematically mod it with a blowgun which increases performance. There is an article on modding a sprinkler valve in the how to section.

ok thanks shrimphead

Nice gun im going to make one but set up for paintball