SpudFiles

hi I made a hammer valve for my upcomming pellet sniper

the diagram is made by BTB
it's made from:
a 1/4" T
2x 1/4" nipple
spring
bolt and nut
2 different sized o-rings

in the groove you see there's a o-ring now

I hope you like it

(has anyone a picture of an other Thammer valve?)

Simple and looks to be effective, I like

Great design! I love it.


No really.It seems very well made, I had not expected this.

I wonder about the finished gun.You might start another frenzy...

Looks promising,


Buutt... When I initially test fired mine, it worked fine at "lower" pressures.

With un-regged CO2, it blew the o-ring "up" the stem. Had to take it all apart to find the problem, and then make a whole new valve stem to solve it.

The new valve stem has a teflon sealing face, which is retained by the shaft threading into the "head" of the valve.

Works perfectly now.

You may, or may not run into this problem. It depends on the pressures you plan to use.

ok

well I was thinking of pressures from about 30 bars
the small o-ring has has chance of coming out but I'm pretty sure it won't. the sealing o-ring is now glued to the nipple and there isn't that much of power acting on the ring it self when the valve opens

we will see when I get a chance to test it

I tested it and there good and bad news

the bad news is that the o-ring which was glued came loosse due to the pressure

the good news is that at 10bars the last little poof of air was about the
35th!

VID!

Hehe it looks like your valve has been naughty and you're spanking it

Have you tried to hook up a barrel to see what sort of power you're getting?

spanking itXD

no I did push a piece of paper in the exhaust hole (XD) and it came out quite fast 8)

I want to try it at 30bar when I find a way to keep the o-ring on place

that is sweet! and no that is no just the paint/pvc glue fumes talking...

once i get done with plauge i might make something similar.

just imagine how many shots you could get with 500psi!

This is definitely going to start a trend.

I know I'm going to want to try this out with a bigger bore; 3/4 or 1" perhaps.

Maybe I'll stick this in a Wye and play around with some angles.

At 30 bar wouldn't it be quite hard to actuate the valve as there is, well, 30 bar of pressure keeping it closed?

Hey guys, rather than start a new topic for this, I am wondering what kinds of ideas you all have for the actual hammer. I have spent all day trying to figure one out for my new cannon, and nothing is working. Hinges lack a place to put a spring, and all in all I am having a really tough time with it. Any ideas are welcome.

Make one from metal stock. Sure you'll have to make your own hinge/axle for it, but you can design it to meet your needs.

This is all assuming you have a means to fabricate metal parts to some degree of course

i know this forum is semi old but a quick question of what will hit the hammer inside the assembled gun ..? because it looks like quite a bit of force is needed and very good job of the valve im jealous lol i want one sooo bad lol

In the bottom of each post you see a " PM" button Collins...
You can PM ( private message) your questions to the author without stirring up old/dead topics.
Obviously you are quite new here, so you'll have a lot of questions.

Also, click on the " wiki" button in the top of the page.It's an encylopedia with loads of information about spudguns and the like.

Now that this topic is kicked, I might add that this valve is perfect for the T-bolt design, maybe even with forced blowback..( contest!)
Also, the barrel extension at the back of the tee enables you to attach a stock, with hammer and trigger.

The easiest hammer, and likely the most effective would be a solid steel rod in side of a pipe, with a spring behind it.
It will need a sear and cocking mech of course.
If you're real good you could loose the o-ring on the valvestem and make it blow back the hammer after the shot....this would make it an autococker, like the paintballgun..

One could also put a pipe inside the reservoir in a coaxial fashion, with the head of the valve stem sliding inside of it, sealed with an O-ring to have it operate without the enormous pressure from the front..

As long as the diameter of the valvestem head doesn;t exceed the diameter of the seal it should still seal, but open with much less opposing force.

Lees opening force ( or possibly totally pressure independant) would mean you could build this in much larger calibers..