SpudFiles

Thought you guys might like to see what I have been asking so many questions for...






Sprinkie.



Bolt closed.



Bolt open.



Chamber.

Sorry for the blurry pictures! I hope you guys like it. I will update with the rest of the specs tomorrow.

Disclaimer, I and spudfiles.com do not take any responsibility if you build your own air gun to this design. If you build your own, always have parental supervision and the OK from a parent if you are under 18.


Specs for my gun.

Barrel: 27" long. 1" ID.
Chamber: Has been updated to a 13"x2" chamber, now holds 520 total pounds of force at 20 psi.
Ammo: Batteries, bean bags, sand, water, anything else that fits in the barrel.

Thanks for reading!

(please do not flame me about the disclaimer...)

Looks nice! I'm proud of you son
My only gripe is that you tapped into a single layer in two spots on your chamber. You really should use a spot where the pipe goes in the fitting, but people get away with that all the time I would have gone with a more low profile compact design myself, but that is more advanced.
Good start!

I spy packing tape. And that pop-off should be threaded through the double layer of PVC.

It also would have been neat to flip around your sprinkler valve so the tube wasn't exposed and simply went straight through the stock.

Nice for a first though.

I like it, I'm not sure what the best way to replace the valve would be and still keep the sleekness of the gun would be. a coaxe would keep it inline but would add space in between the valve and the projectile.

drex wrote:A coax would keep it inline but would add space in between the valve and the projectile.

Not if he takes out the breech load... he could just muzzle load it like all coaxials.

Yeah, for a first, I dident even think it would work. To be honest, I thought the whole thing would blow up in my hands... The single layer pvc part for the pop off was actually the only spot, because the double layer would have taken me forever to drill through (I dont have very many tools that could do it, and my drill bits are all dull...) so that was the only option. Note, the chamber is only a chamber, there is no schrader or even presta in it, thats simply a QD male fitting on the back. Glad you guys like it! Let me know if there is any way I can convert it to something like a coax for only $13.

M only issues are what looks like a DWV coupler and the popoff threaded into a single layer of pipe. The bushing doesnt go al the way into the coupling or it does and the coupling is DWV, both are dangerous. I would fix those issues before firing again. I would scrap the chamber and build a safer one. I really like the stock, its a good touch.

Oh yeah CG1125 is right... that appears to be a DWV coupling, meaning it is not rated for pressure.

It held up to repeated abuse of 150+ psi, so its actually held up pretty well... The stock is a, what I believe, 1893 Turkish Mauser rifle. I think it may actually be 1903, but the age of the wood says otherwise. If you guys can help me come up with a way to turn this into a coax, that would be greatly appreciated! I really cant spend more than 13 dollars, but I will try and use pvc parts that I have laying around in my room. I have lengths of 3/4" conduit pvc, dunno how well that might hold up against pressure, always worth a try! A coax would allow me to mount a scope, and even possible find a way to breech load it (thinking a T with a reducer, and on the barrel another T with a piece of pvc going back up to the reducer.).

I say keep it as is, with my only recommendation being to saw off the coupler/bushing/male adapter part and replace the coupler with a pressure rated one. If you wanted to turn it into a coaxial you would be stuck muzzle-loading without a myriad of modified fittings, and the performance increase won't exactly be spectacular as your barrel isn't too much bigger than the flow orifice in the valve itself.

Not much you can do about the pop-off at this point. If it worries you spend the couple of bucks on a 2" coupler, cut out that section, and glue the two halves back together. Then, tap through the coupler and pipe or at the cap or coupler/bushing at the front through a double layer.

But enough of that... nice job! It definitely looks like it was made by somebody with some brain cells to rub together. We all make mistakes with our first cannons. My first pneumatic made excessive use of DWV and a crappy valve, so your first cannon is much better than my first pneumatic.

warhead052 wrote:The stock is a, what I believe, 1893 Turkish Mauser rifle. I think it may actually be 1903, but the age of the wood says otherwise.

Looks like a Mauser, in which case it deserves better. might I suggest you remove your (ok for a first effort) launcher from it, and set the stock aside until your skills improve

Jack, everything starts with a prototype, I am possible going to convert it to coaxial, maybe even QEV with a copper barrel, and a magazine and all. I was thinking maybe make a bipod and a tank mounted under the rifle, but it would probably get to heavy to fast. Other than that thanks guys for all the positive comments! That coupler is infact pressure rated, I got around to testing it after I posted last night at a friends house, we linked up to I think 200 psi from his paintball CO2 tank. Crazy stuff goes on at the middle of the night....

man you are really asking for it. that thing is wayyyyyy unsafe. if the tank rockets off and hits you it could very easily break your leg or what every it hits.

warhead052 wrote:Jack, everything starts with a prototype

True, but what I'm saying is that a precious resource like an antique stock deserves better than to be put on a first effort. Put it on a shelf, then when you can make a decent high pressure coaxial like this, use it to its full potential

@Crna, it would probably rocket off my shoulder and just rebound onto the wall or something.

@JSR, this is on its way to being converted to qev or coaxial, I just need to figure out stuff like the magazine that I want to make and what not...