Ball valve on endcap question?
- wangpushups
- Specialist
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Ok so i've looked everywhere trying to figure out how you get the ball valve on the endcap...what's the trick to doing so? Thats the only thing I need to know about finishing my gun.
- Pete Zaria
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I've never tried to mount a ball valve (for venting) on an end cap.
Instead, consider using a male threaded adapter and a reducer.
On my cannon, I glued a 1.5" valve onto a 1.5" - 2" adapter, glued that to a 2" - 4" adapter, and then attached that to the combustion chamber with six large bolts (and no glue) so it could be removed for maintenance/repairs in the future.
Hope that helps.
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
Instead, consider using a male threaded adapter and a reducer.
On my cannon, I glued a 1.5" valve onto a 1.5" - 2" adapter, glued that to a 2" - 4" adapter, and then attached that to the combustion chamber with six large bolts (and no glue) so it could be removed for maintenance/repairs in the future.
Hope that helps.
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
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Last edited by SpudBlaster15 on Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- wangpushups
- Specialist
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:28 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
Ok i'm sure i'll figure it out... so spudblaster15, I have to admit that the resurrected combustion you have totally inspired me to make mine, your gun was one of the first guns i've seen on here and i'm workin on it right now.
I always mount my Ball valve to an endcap. Use a male to male adapter, and drill a hole to the wanted size in the endcap. Then thread the adapter in and put the ball valve on the other end. You might want to put plumbers tape/Teflon tape on the threads though.
Happy SPuddin'
Edit- I just realised then, This is for venting a combustion. Sorry Mine was for Pneumatic, though it could still be used. Sorry.
Happy SPuddin'
Edit- I just realised then, This is for venting a combustion. Sorry Mine was for Pneumatic, though it could still be used. Sorry.
Poo.
- Pete Zaria
- Corporal 5
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Here's a picture I just uploaded of how I attached my vent valve: http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1833/img1899lw4.jpg
It works very well but is a pain in the @$$ to open the chamber for adjustments - do it right the first time
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
It works very well but is a pain in the @$$ to open the chamber for adjustments - do it right the first time
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
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- Private 2
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3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.
<a href="http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/files/n ... 536.jpg">I heartily disagree!</a>MortarArmy wrote:3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.
4" cleanout: $1
2" pipe bracket thing: $0.69
Bolt: $0.03
Washer: $0.01
Duct Tape: had already
2 Nuts: $0.02
Spring: $0.59
Rubber Washer: $0.49
Total Cost: $2.23
Vents a 4" x 24" chamber is 3-4 seconds.
- wangpushups
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OK so if I have the 2" to 4" reducer attached to the ball valve I can just bolt the reducer onto the chamber, but, wont it leak air if its not glued on there?
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I installed a 1.5" ball valve on my combustion gun. All I needed was a male 1.5" male adapter that I cemented into the 3" to 1.5" bushing on the back of the combustion chamber. I then just screwed the ball valve onto the protruding threads.
- mark.f
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I think Sgorty made his by drilling a 2-3/8" hole in the cap, gluing a small piece of pipe into the ball valve. Then, he pushed the pipe through the cap with some glue, and then glued on a 2" coupling half on the inside to hold the valve in place.
<img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/ ... 0169_3.jpg" border="0"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/ ... G_0168.jpg" border="0">
L7 gbl
L7 gbl