SpudFiles

Ok so i've looked everywhere trying to figure out how you get the ball valve on the endcap...what's the trick to doing so? Thats the only thing I need to know about finishing my gun.

I've never tried to mount a ball valve (for venting) on an end cap.

Instead, consider using a male threaded adapter and a reducer.

On my cannon, I glued a 1.5" valve onto a 1.5" - 2" adapter, glued that to a 2" - 4" adapter, and then attached that to the combustion chamber with six large bolts (and no glue) so it could be removed for maintenance/repairs in the future.

Hope that helps.

Peace,
Pete Zaria.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Cras nec placerat erat. Vivamus dapibus egestas nunc, at eleifend neque. Suspendisse potenti. Sed dictum lacus eu nisl pretium vehicula. Ut faucibus hendrerit nisi. Integer ultricies orci eu ultrices malesuada. Fusce id mauris risus. Suspendisse finibus ligula et nisl rutrum efficitur. Vestibulum posuere erat pellentesque ornare venenatis. Integer commodo fermentum tortor in pharetra. Proin scelerisque consectetur posuere. Vestibulum molestie augue ac nibh feugiat scelerisque. Sed aliquet a nunc in mattis.

Ok i'm sure i'll figure it out... so spudblaster15, I have to admit that the resurrected combustion you have totally inspired me to make mine, your gun was one of the first guns i've seen on here and i'm workin on it right now.

I always mount my Ball valve to an endcap. Use a male to male adapter, and drill a hole to the wanted size in the endcap. Then thread the adapter in and put the ball valve on the other end. You might want to put plumbers tape/Teflon tape on the threads though.

Happy SPuddin'

Edit- I just realised then, This is for venting a combustion. Sorry Mine was for Pneumatic, though it could still be used. Sorry.

I just got one big screw-on endcap
Now that vents.

Just dont use sticky hairspray.

Here's a picture I just uploaded of how I attached my vent valve: http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1833/img1899lw4.jpg

It works very well but is a pain in the @$$ to open the chamber for adjustments - do it right the first time

Peace,
Pete Zaria.

Why use the cap to begin with? Why not use a cleanout plug or just a ball valve without a cap?

3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.

MortarArmy wrote:3" chamber to 2" reducer attach to that a couple inches of 2" pipe as a coupler, then a 2" ball valve. glue it all together and have the fastest venting you can get for $13, and 10 minutes worth of time.

<a href="http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/files/n ... 536.jpg">I heartily disagree!</a>

4" cleanout: $1
2" pipe bracket thing: $0.69
Bolt: $0.03
Washer: $0.01
Duct Tape: had already
2 Nuts: $0.02
Spring: $0.59
Rubber Washer: $0.49

Total Cost: $2.23
Vents a 4" x 24" chamber is 3-4 seconds.

OK so if I have the 2" to 4" reducer attached to the ball valve I can just bolt the reducer onto the chamber, but, wont it leak air if its not glued on there?

I installed a 1.5" ball valve on my combustion gun. All I needed was a male 1.5" male adapter that I cemented into the 3" to 1.5" bushing on the back of the combustion chamber. I then just screwed the ball valve onto the protruding threads.

I think Sgorty made his by drilling a 2-3/8" hole in the cap, gluing a small piece of pipe into the ball valve. Then, he pushed the pipe through the cap with some glue, and then glued on a 2" coupling half on the inside to hold the valve in place.

<img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/ ... 0169_3.jpg" border="0"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/ ... G_0168.jpg" border="0">

L7 gbl