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Help with my homemade taser
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 6:54 am
by Thursto
Can you help me with this. I brougt this from a second hand store, and it said parts only, which is ok, thats all i want, i got the circut out of it, and compared to other ones on the internet and its different. I have a few pics below, can someone please point out which wires i solder to where, and what i attach to them (switch, momentary switch, battery etc)
PICS:
Cheers
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:20 am
by silverdooty
did you remove the wires and led or was it this way when you bought it?
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:41 am
by Thursto
Yeah it was all in a cam case, i removed the wires etc.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:03 pm
by jimmy101
You should have noted where the various wires were connected when it was still in the camera case.
You need to know where;
1. The battery + and - was connected
2. The power switch was connected
3. The shutter release (trigger) was connected.
Usually, the battery minus terminal is connected to the cap's plus terminal. Try to figure out the battery connections from the camera. Hook up a battery then use a piece of wire to short across the two big shiny pads and see if the board starts to charge, it'll make a whining sound. If it doesn't start to charge try shorting the two small pads as well. If the pads are the on/off switch then you can just solder a piece of wire accross the pads so the board is always on. Then wire a toggle switch in series with the battery as your main power switch.
The blob of solder near the cap looks like it was holding a piece of sheet metal. If that is the case, then it was probably one of the trigger contacts. You need to find where the other thin piece of metal was connected that made up the other half of the trigger switch. Wire a pushbutton switch between those two points as your fire button.
The two small wires at the top of the board (opposite the cap) are probably where the ready light was attached. Sometime the ready light is an LED, other times it is a neon bulb. Looking at the traces I would guess it was a neon bulb since I don't see a current limiting resistor. Neon bulbs require ~70V to light up and are non-polarized. If you still have the neon bulb try hooking it back up so you know when the board is charged.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:59 pm
by Novacastrian
There is a pic of one wired up in here somewhere.
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/boxful- ... 11073.html
There ya go, have a look at that.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:58 pm
by Thursto
Allrigh cheers, thanks for that, except i have allready seen that, and that is one of those ones which do not match up to mine, does anyone else know where the wires go on mine?? or have a general idea??
thanks thursto.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 10:41 pm
by noname
I found it easiest to get to work when it was still in the camera case. All IU had to do was cut open the plastic cover of the flash tube, bust out the bulb, and attach two wires to the leads. I extended the two wires, and now, I just charge the flash like on a normal camera, and hit to button that takes a picture. Anything touching the two wires gets a bad zap and two tiny tiny blisters where the wires were touching.
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:28 pm
by Novacastrian
noname wrote:I found it easiest to get to work when it was still in the camera case. All IU had to do was cut open the plastic cover of the flash tube, bust out the bulb, and attach two wires to the leads. I extended the two wires, and now, I just charge the flash like on a normal camera, and hit to button that takes a picture. Anything touching the two wires gets a bad zap and two tiny tiny blisters where the wires were touching.
That HAS to be the easiet way i have ever heard it explained
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:55 pm
by TwitchTheAussie
I made mine different. I just soldered a wire to the capacitor and another to the battery holder, charged it up and touched the two wires. Not good for a cannon but perfect to zap someone