SpudFiles

I was also considering building a basic combustion gun with a

1. 1 foot clear pvc sch 80 combustion chamber (price is 24.65)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=34127

2. Standard sch80 threaded cap (price is 6.00)

3. 3 Standard sch80 4" to 2" flush reducer (price is 18.00)

4. 5 foot clear pvc sch 80 barrel (price is 41.30)

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=34124

5. 5 foot clear pvc 4" sch 80 outer barrel (price is 123.25)

this way... i can use my L.E.D. skills to light the entire gun.. barrel and chamber ... minus the white connections in the gun holding it all together...

the schematic looks like this.



but this way.. you can see the entire explosion.. in the chamber.. and taking place in the barrel.. and you will see the l.e.d. lit up in the flus reducers.. like this...







this is just my opinion.. and was wondering what you all thought if I would make this... stupid or good idea?

that would make the gun cost around.. say.. 250.00 american

Well, clear PVC is always a plus for combustion launchers. If you can, you should try to go for clear fittings as well. You know, Radio Shack has computer fans with LEDs built into them. That would look good with this as well.

i checked.. but the clear fittings are like 283.00 each.. wowsers.. lol
that would be one expensive toy..

my fianc'e would shit

Save yourself $123 and omit the outer shroud on the barrel since it doesn't do anything.

Get the proper numbered drill bit that exactly matches the OD of your favorite LEDs and drill holes in the clear barrel (and perhaps the chamber) and just glue the LEDs into the PVC so they point into the barrel.

If the LEDs fit snugly and are glued in place there shouldn't be any problems with the pressure forcing them out.

what would you do with the wiring?.. the only reason i was using the outer barrel.. the 123.00 is so the wiring does not snag.. and rip off.. ect..
whats your opinion.. you have me intrquied to pick your brain jimmy.. after seeing your knowledge on the spark in the other thread.. i really think we could be getting along here.

Note: Pipe is priced per foot and sold in 10' sections only.


You would be paying 246.50 for the chamber.

You won't need sched 80 for just a 1x standard combustion unless you just want to spend the extra $$ and if you really really just want sch 80. Sched 40 would be fine for this. You can get a 4' stick at McMaster for $98, part number 49035K33.

Also as I've mentioned before, consider going to metered propane to fuel this baby. Here's a picture of the suggested metering system. Tap a 1/4" NPT hole through 2 layer of PVC (through a coupler and chamber) and install the quick-connect. To use, charge the "hypo" from the propane tank, then take the hypo to your gun, snap in, open the valve to inject your fuel load, close valve, pop it off. You could also make several of the "hypos" and have them charged and ready to go for relative rapid fire....they are pretty cheap to make.

You'll need to install an 80mm computer fan in the rear, that chamber is pretty big. Power it with your LED power supply.

You could install a basic burst disk union on the barrel and have a monster noise cannon. Big chamber and short barrel = looouud. You may want to consider ear protection being the shooter.

I went ahead and bought some clear PVC a couple of weeks ago, knowing I'll want a clear combustion for this summer...finally just said what the heck, you only live once...

scottcrete wrote:what would you do with the wiring?.. the only reason i was using the outer barrel.. the 123.00 is so the wiring does not snag.. and rip off.. ect..

Ya, I thought about that problem. Still, it seems like $123 is an awful lot to pay for a wiring protector.

Some possibilities;

1. Get a much smaller id pipe (clear or opaque), rip it in half, and install it hte length of the barrel over the wires and the LED butts to protect them.

2. The LEDs will run off a pretty small gauge wire. Bend the LED's leads down flush along the barrel. Get some 30G wire from radio shack, lay tightly along the barrel then cover with clear tape (like the kind used for shipping boxes). You could use magnet wire, which is a lot thinner than anything with plastic insulation on it.

3. Or, glue the wires in place with a thin bead of epoxy, or perhaps super glue.