SpudFiles

on my combustion, mine fits perfectly in 3/4 pvc and i just have holes drilled in the side. the wires were placed as close to the two contacts and hot glued in place. Has anyone been sucsesful in soldering? i tried to with a lighter but started to melt the plastic

you need a propane, LPG or MAPP blowtorch to solder. a lighter flame isn't hot enough.

EDIT: sorry, you need a soldering iron to do electronic soldering.

I've done small things with a lighter, it's just the plastics to close. Has it worked with an iron?

well the iron is the right tool for the job. you should invest in one.

yeah u can get small cheap 1 for like 5 buck

A lot of BBQs come with wires, complete with clips to attach to the sparker. If you can find one of these or clip-on tips for your current setup, you'll be golden.

If not, you can solder it on or just tape em in place. It'll work as long as the wires can't pull away.

When I tried soldering wires to the contact on my piezo for my advanced mini I broke the first piezo.

I ended up using copper tape to attach it (used for lead-lighting). It's completely solderable, has low resistance (even on adhesive side) and is quite strong. I also used it in the spark strip.

I just tried soldering a wire to the tip of the BBQ igniter and was unsuccessful (the connector on the side was no problem). I even tried filing off the outer "finish" from the tip - still, no dice. Instead, I used the copper connectors that come on the wires included with the BBQ igniter kit.

You also want to keep your wires separated as much as possible from each other.

I get the Weber Ignitors, drill a 19/32 hole in a PVC threaded cap and glue it in place with PVC glue and some hot glue for extra help.

I then drill (7/64) & tap (6-32) two holes in my chamber, and find correct length of 6-32 stainless steel screws for the gap. I use 6-32 locking washer & wing nut to secure the BBQ wires to the screws inside the chamber. I finish it up with screw covers.

Here's my latest one:
- 3x3x1.5in Sanitary 'T'
- 3in clean-out adapter
- 3in plug
- 3in to 1.5in reducer bushing
- 1.5in female thread adapter
- 1.5in terminal adapter (from electrical PVC, it has a deeper female smooth area for better glue hold on barrel)
- 1.5x21.5in thinwall PVC pipe (160psi rating)
- 1.5 pipe about 1.5in long to connect the 'T' to a male thread adapter
- 1.5in threaded cap w/BBQ ignitor
- Gorilla Duct Tape to cover the 'T' hole

Not to thread jack, but my issue is with my design as described above.

I've been getting spark failure, somewhere between the button & the screws I see sparks. Since my tape is blocking my view I am not sure if it's sparking from wire to wire, or from wire to PVC wall.

I am guessing from wire to PVC wall. I've done dozens of sparking with the sparker & wires out of the chamber and twisted together, 100% spark between the crimped on ring terminals.

I am thinking of wrapping small bit of electrical tape on the very top of the screw. So when it screws into the PVC the tape should insulate it some. I am also going to add some fiber washers between the PVC chamber & ring terminals.

Well I thing the fiber washers on the inside is working best, the tape on the top just kinda squashed out and didn't get into the threads.

I've done 40+ dry fires, and they all sparked between the screws.

PVC does not conduct. However, it looks to me like your wires are crossed. IMO, even if insulated, the two wires are the closest point - closer to each other than the tips of the spark gap. Also, your gap appears to be a bit large for a BBQ ignitor.

What boomer said. Shorten up the gap to perhaps 1/8" or so and if you can sharpen the screws to points.

As I said in previous post, I have tested the wires twisted around one another, out of the chamber...100% spark between the ring terminals. Ever since I've added the fiber washers, all sparks have been between the screws. BTW the spark gap is about 1/4in or less, which is about the same/or less then the original crematic probe & collector box spark thing.

Sounds like you're good to go!