All the winter balls I've seen have been crap, even the stuff from RPS...al-xg wrote:Use the heaviest winter paintballs you can find.
They tend to use a much more viscous paint wich doesn't move about as much in the ball.
although it wouldn't surprise me if it was just a bad batch.
According to AKALMP, the reverse is true.I'd actualy suggest a higher pressure with lower volume, instead of previous suggestions, (if your making the marker) so you get the highest possible acceleration with the least pressure at the muzzle.
And at the barrel lengths we're talking about, we are pushing the paintball up to 280fps, not catapulting it like you would see in a normal paintgun.
HPLV would produce either hot velocities or a vacuum, neither being desirable
But if your using your paintball marker, that might be tricky to adjust on a mechanical tippmann, on an eletropneumatic marker you could just play around with the pressure and dwell times.
You can adjust dwell and pressure on Tippmann, hence my suggesting a spring kit and a Stabilizer...
And I thought you said HPLV would be better, EP's are all LPHV.
The hammerhaed barrels are riffled iirc(with a twist rate, not straight grooves though) and are among the most accurate, but that is still just about 40-50m effective range.
Hammerhead barrels are tolerable, but not as good as PPS's elliptically honed smoothbore brass.
EDIT:
Paint-to-bore match is almost all Smart Parts marketing hype...cooptroop123 wrote:rifling wont help, the best accuracy comes from a good paint bore match and good, spherical paint
The only truth to it comes from the fact that you won't have roll-outs, which is not a problem on today's open-bolt guns, and can be solved with Widgets for closed bolt guns...
paint swages itself to fit the barrel, so long as the barrel isn't to over/under-sized (i.e. .691 paint in a .678barrel or vice-versa).