SodaStream Tanks for Air Tanks
Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:43 am
I just posted this in someones thread and figured i'd put it here, too:
They say they are rated for something crazy like 350bar, but I just go around 30 bar. You need to remove the label and wrap the bottle (you can get 130L or 60L tanks-just go to staples or somewhere, amazon has them, look on sodastream website) in duct tape or something equal to prevent damage. then you will see a hex screw sticking out of the side-very small. Unscrew it ccw very slowly, let it drain in an open space where you wont suffocate (not in your closet). Once hissing stops, unscrew that completely. When that is out, any last bits of co2 drains out. Then clamp the tape covered bottle in a vise (I put some wood in my vise for further protection). Get a wrench that fits the slot on the big brass valve. It's on very tight, so it may be challenging. Turn ccw. Once loose, it will be very easy. On the shaft, there is an o-ring followed by about 65mm of ridiculously fine threads. Unscrew. Move the bottle to somewhere you won't lose it like I managed to do. If the vise method didn't work for you, wrap bottle in a ton of tape and on that tape use a large pipe wrench, put it on tight and then use a wrench for the brass valve's notch. This can be done by a 15 year old me, and very easily with 2 people. Then put the valve in your mill or drill press or if you aren't really spoiled, a vise and a hand drill. then take a 11.11ish mm (7/16") drill bit and drill out the center of the valve. there is a pin that is spring loaded, so keep pressing down with your drill until you start taking out the brass around that hole. Drill all the way through. it may be easier to go in from the bottom. Both the pin and an internal disk will break loose and spin freely which require lots of force to break through and it makes tons of heat (friction can be reduced with lots of lube). Once your through, get some pliers or something and clean out that hole completely. then tap it with a 1/4" npt tap and lots of lube and forearm strength (nothing intended there). Then I chose to put the small screw that releases the pressure back and TIG weld it into place/seal off holes. You could just lug hole with something and use high pressure epoxy. If you tig weld use 140amps on dc, same brass as the base material-I actually brazed it with silicon bronze on 70 amps (foot pedal) wear a respirator (zinc). Then I put an air fitting in and put it in as far as it would go down and proceeded to bed it in a ton of 100 bar epoxy. I hope that this helps. It took me about an hour in total. Sorry for the five page essay on a simple task. Any questions pm me. I am not responsible for any of the stupid stuff you do and end up with a body full of stainless.
They say they are rated for something crazy like 350bar, but I just go around 30 bar. You need to remove the label and wrap the bottle (you can get 130L or 60L tanks-just go to staples or somewhere, amazon has them, look on sodastream website) in duct tape or something equal to prevent damage. then you will see a hex screw sticking out of the side-very small. Unscrew it ccw very slowly, let it drain in an open space where you wont suffocate (not in your closet). Once hissing stops, unscrew that completely. When that is out, any last bits of co2 drains out. Then clamp the tape covered bottle in a vise (I put some wood in my vise for further protection). Get a wrench that fits the slot on the big brass valve. It's on very tight, so it may be challenging. Turn ccw. Once loose, it will be very easy. On the shaft, there is an o-ring followed by about 65mm of ridiculously fine threads. Unscrew. Move the bottle to somewhere you won't lose it like I managed to do. If the vise method didn't work for you, wrap bottle in a ton of tape and on that tape use a large pipe wrench, put it on tight and then use a wrench for the brass valve's notch. This can be done by a 15 year old me, and very easily with 2 people. Then put the valve in your mill or drill press or if you aren't really spoiled, a vise and a hand drill. then take a 11.11ish mm (7/16") drill bit and drill out the center of the valve. there is a pin that is spring loaded, so keep pressing down with your drill until you start taking out the brass around that hole. Drill all the way through. it may be easier to go in from the bottom. Both the pin and an internal disk will break loose and spin freely which require lots of force to break through and it makes tons of heat (friction can be reduced with lots of lube). Once your through, get some pliers or something and clean out that hole completely. then tap it with a 1/4" npt tap and lots of lube and forearm strength (nothing intended there). Then I chose to put the small screw that releases the pressure back and TIG weld it into place/seal off holes. You could just lug hole with something and use high pressure epoxy. If you tig weld use 140amps on dc, same brass as the base material-I actually brazed it with silicon bronze on 70 amps (foot pedal) wear a respirator (zinc). Then I put an air fitting in and put it in as far as it would go down and proceeded to bed it in a ton of 100 bar epoxy. I hope that this helps. It took me about an hour in total. Sorry for the five page essay on a simple task. Any questions pm me. I am not responsible for any of the stupid stuff you do and end up with a body full of stainless.