DWV parts
What are you combusting? Propane, hydrogen, HMX?
Ask a stupid question...
Ask a stupid question...
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
- noob of noobs
- Specialist 3
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 8:04 pm
- Location: Illinois, Skokie
I'm pretty sure it won't blow up on you if you use a simple aerosol combustion, but I'm not sure about stronger fuels. I wouldn't use it if I were you, the small difference in price is well worth it.
Then again there are a lot of spray and pray combustions on youtube that have failed.
Do a quick youtube search on potato gun explosion and you will see several. Most of them are either using cleanout caps and bell reducers which fly off, or Wyes and Tees that shatter. Like the Noob of Noobs said, the piece of mind is well worth the small price you will pay for NSF-pw parts.
Do a quick youtube search on potato gun explosion and you will see several. Most of them are either using cleanout caps and bell reducers which fly off, or Wyes and Tees that shatter. Like the Noob of Noobs said, the piece of mind is well worth the small price you will pay for NSF-pw parts.
- iPaintball
- Corporal 2
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:37 pm
DWV parts are usually OKAY to use with low powered combustions, but if you are using metered propane, a chamber fan, and an efficient ignition system, you should try and use pressure rated parts just to be on the safe side. A properly solvent welded DWV cannon of mine even survived a blast of acetlyne gas. Now THAT was loud.
Summer Projects:
CO2 tank hybrid: Gotta fix the meter
Cane gun: Needs a pilot/fill setup
1.5" piston valve gun: Almost done
CO2 tank hybrid: Gotta fix the meter
Cane gun: Needs a pilot/fill setup
1.5" piston valve gun: Almost done
On a serious note, using DWV PVC is fine for a spray'n'pray, and solid wall DWV ABS is good for any combustion short of a hybrid, even oxygen enriched mixtures (as long as you don't hold it).
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
Uh oh, my bad. I assumed that you meant Drain Waste Vent PVC, i.e. non pressure rated solid wall PVC, but it seems as though you are actually using a material called "DWV". In that case, I have no idea.
[/sarcasm]
Do you mean DWV PVC, DWV ABS, DWV copper? Some clarification would be nice.
[/sarcasm]
Do you mean DWV PVC, DWV ABS, DWV copper? Some clarification would be nice.
Spudfiles' resident expert on all things that sail through the air at improbable speeds, trailing an incandescent wake of ionized air, dissociated polymers and metal oxides.
-
- Private
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 1:40 am
- Location: The Union Of Socialist Canadian Republics
- Contact:
I'm a noob who's bought some parts for a combustion gun I'm going to build, and they are DWV ABS. They seem to be solid wall, but it's not indicated on the piping, it only says it's DWV. Are there any printed labels that indicated whether the ABS is cellular core or not? I'd like to know so that I can return the parts if they are not solid wall.
- Fnord
- First Sergeant 2
- Posts: 2239
- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:20 pm
- Location: Pripyat
- Been thanked: 1 time
- Contact:
If it's noticeably lighter than pvc, it's probably cell core. If it's just a little bit lighter, it's probably solid walled.
Cell core dwv-abs is typically ok for a cumbustion, just avoid drilling through it if you can.
If you can get solid wall stuff, go for it. It isn't as easy to find where I live, so I don't usually bother.
Cell core dwv-abs is typically ok for a cumbustion, just avoid drilling through it if you can.
If you can get solid wall stuff, go for it. It isn't as easy to find where I live, so I don't usually bother.
- jimmy101
- Sergeant Major
- Posts: 3199
- Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:48 am
- Location: Greenwood, Indiana
- Has thanked: 5 times
- Been thanked: 17 times
- Contact:
Usually cell core pipe will say so on the pipe.
If it doesn't, then look at the end of the pipe. Does is look like a solid piece of material with no difference between the surface layer and the core? With cell core pipe it will look like there is a shell of one material covering a core of another. With solid PVC there is no apparent cover/core boundary.
If it doesn't, then look at the end of the pipe. Does is look like a solid piece of material with no difference between the surface layer and the core? With cell core pipe it will look like there is a shell of one material covering a core of another. With solid PVC there is no apparent cover/core boundary.
- williamfeldmann
- Specialist 2
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2007 6:55 pm
- Location: Ames. Iowa, middle of BFE
If the side of the pipe does not say solid core, I am pretty sure that it is not solid core. Even DWV parts should say if they are solid. The stuff around me says on the side of the pipe and fittings if they are solid or cell core PVC or ABS.
ABS cell core will probably work for your gun and fuel, but the price difference isn't worth worrying about, just return the parts for solid wall.
Drilling holes is not recommended even though almost all simple combustions have holes drilled for ignition and whatnot. Less holes = more stable and safe gun.
ABS cell core will probably work for your gun and fuel, but the price difference isn't worth worrying about, just return the parts for solid wall.
Drilling holes is not recommended even though almost all simple combustions have holes drilled for ignition and whatnot. Less holes = more stable and safe gun.
Trying to figure out how to make a SCUBA first stage regulator work for portable charging station. If only that pesky job thing didn't keep eating up all my time...
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." - Albert Einstein
-
- Private
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2007 1:40 am
- Location: The Union Of Socialist Canadian Republics
- Contact:
I've got a 3' length of 1.5" pipe and it feels pretty hefty, i'd say the pipe thickness is about 4mm and the pipe itself weighs in at about 2.5lbs. And I just checked the cut of the pipe and there is no difference between the outer material and inner material.
- Pete Zaria
- Corporal 5
- Posts: 954
- Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 6:04 pm
- Location: Near Seattle, WA
I've built two metered propane combustion guns, both using DWV cellular core ABS pipe, 4" chambers and 1.5" - 2" barrels, chamber fan, spark strip, ball valve venting, etc... Never had a problem with the pipe. However, here are some tips:
Avoid using cleanout caps - these are by far the most likely part to fail.
Rough up the pipe and fittings a bit with some rough sandpaper before gluing, apply glue liberally, TWIST the fitting at least 1/4 turn as you insert it, make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the socket, and let it cure for a full 24 hours before testing.
As someone already pointed out, avoid drilling any more holes in the chamber than absolutely necessary, and where you must drill a hole, do so where a pipe and fitting overlap (through two layers of material) and never drill a hole in a sidewall of the pipe, this will weaken it and give it a place to fail.
I've personally pressure tested ABS cell core DWV pipe to 125psi (as high as my compressor goes) overnight with no failure, this does NOT mean it's safe to use for pressure, however, I'm very confident that if the cannon is built properly and the ammo is not "stuck", there's no reason ABS DWV should ever fail in a combustion gun.
Take your time, do a good job gluing, don't put holes in your chamber, and be careful. The pipe shouldn't ever fail. But don't blame me if it does.
Just my two cents.
Peace,
Pete Zaria.
Avoid using cleanout caps - these are by far the most likely part to fail.
Rough up the pipe and fittings a bit with some rough sandpaper before gluing, apply glue liberally, TWIST the fitting at least 1/4 turn as you insert it, make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the socket, and let it cure for a full 24 hours before testing.
As someone already pointed out, avoid drilling any more holes in the chamber than absolutely necessary, and where you must drill a hole, do so where a pipe and fitting overlap (through two layers of material) and never drill a hole in a sidewall of the pipe, this will weaken it and give it a place to fail.
I've personally pressure tested ABS cell core DWV pipe to 125psi (as high as my compressor goes) overnight with no failure, this does NOT mean it's safe to use for pressure, however, I'm very confident that if the cannon is built properly and the ammo is not "stuck", there's no reason ABS DWV should ever fail in a combustion gun.
Take your time, do a good job gluing, don't put holes in your chamber, and be careful. The pipe shouldn't ever fail. But don't blame me if it does.
Just my two cents.
Peace,
Pete Zaria.