Sleeving PVC

A place for general potato gun questions and discussions.
User avatar
zeigs spud
Corporal 2
Corporal 2
Posts: 657
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:39 pm

Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:06 pm

Tyro wrote:no i meant, can't you just buy a PVC pipe that fits your projectile?
or is there another purpose for sleeing it?
uhh you could but i'd imagen going to a plubing warehouse is going quite out of your way and not to mention they can be expensive. so yea pretty much only reason.

zeigs spud wrote:
pyromanic13 wrote:couldn't you mathmatically figure out how much you need to take off to make a perfect match?
uhh me...no lol i'm not that good. hbu? 3" pvc pipe and i wana put in a 3" peice. how much do i cut out?
so back to my question please?
User avatar
Tyro
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 154
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 1:03 am
Location: The Land of Plenty! (Aus)

Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:10 pm

ok, i'll explain one last time, Is there a standard size pipe that will fit tennisballs or golf balls?
pyrogeek
Specialist 4
Specialist 4
Posts: 457
Joined: Sat May 13, 2006 7:43 pm
Location: moline Illinios

Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:28 pm

To make the job of sleeving easier, could a lubricant be used? I was thinking of somethig like glycerin or a silicone based lube.
User avatar
zeigs spud
Corporal 2
Corporal 2
Posts: 657
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:39 pm

Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:21 pm

Tyro wrote:ok, i'll explain one last time, Is there a standard size pipe that will fit tennisballs or golf balls?
omg..i alredy said YESS!!!!!!!!.....
pyrogeek wrote:To make the job of sleeving easier, could a lubricant be used? I was thinking of somethig like glycerin or a silicone based lube.
uhh yea i guess but i think it wouldn't be worth it becuase if you got it on ur hands it would be hard to get in and for what i know it wouldn't make much of a diffrence. plus, if your cannons really powerful then you may wana glue that sleeved peice in, the lube may not be good for the pvc cement or if you don't use it it just has more chance of sliding out.

PLEASE back to my question?! :?:
User avatar
noname
First Sergeant 4
First Sergeant 4
Posts: 2698
Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:19 pm
Location: Bay Area, CA

Tue Oct 17, 2006 11:04 pm

1.5" SDR 21 isn't too common, whereas you can get 2" Sch 40 just about anywhere that sells PVC.

Where'd that third page come from? :lol:
User avatar
Tyro
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 154
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 1:03 am
Location: The Land of Plenty! (Aus)

Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:12 am

what's the point of sleeving?
User avatar
SquishY
Specialist
Specialist
Posts: 155
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 6:37 pm
Contact:

Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:29 am

To creat an odd Inner Diameter pipe, say you have weird size ammo and no conventional sized pipe to fit, this creates that pipe but not really. And while on the topic od weird sizes what size would .40 caliber be?
Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward.
Whoever cannot take care of themself without that law is both.
For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,
'If I live, I will kill you. If I die, You are forgiven.'
Such is the rule of honor.
User avatar
Recruit
Specialist 4
Specialist 4
Posts: 413
Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 4:26 pm

Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:12 am

Umm renforcing the pipe and making a snugger fit so you get better distance. is what i can think of
User avatar
MrCrowley
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 10078
Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:42 pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Been thanked: 3 times

Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:12 am

SquishY wrote:To creat an odd Inner Diameter pipe, say you have weird size ammo and no conventional sized pipe to fit, this creates that pipe but not really. And while on the topic od weird sizes what size would .40 caliber be?
10mm, 1/2" will give you around 12-14mm as the I.D depending on what type of pipe you buy.
upit14
Private
Private
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:06 pm
Location: FLORIDA
Been thanked: 1 time

Thu Oct 19, 2006 7:41 am

boilingleadbath wrote:pimpmann22, you should probably take a course in idiot... it's a handy language to know around these parts.
Now, what I gather from arabidsquid is this: (but remember that I'm not exactly fluent in idiot, either)

He wants to fill the gap (see the bottom of the glowing-golfball-in-tube picture; it's the same gap that a metal strip was inserted into in the heavy barrel.) with a strip of rubber... the point being that this would make it high friction at the bottom, giving it a spin - the fundumental idea of hop-up.

To which I will respond with:
The rubber will have to slightly protrude to catch the paint ball, and this basicaly eliminates the option of simply pouring a "liquid rubber" product. (like plasti-dip) Inserting a peice of 'real rubber' would be fairly hard, at least as hard as the already existing meathod of adhearing some "friction tape" (or similar high friction adhesive-backed film) to the top of the muzzel end of the barrel.

Opps... let me translate that into idiot for you...
it wont be easy you cant just pour rubber down there cause the ball wont tooch it and real stufe like innertube is hard to use why bother when we have good way already just tape some of that tape they use for hockey sticks (HE-double hockey sticks LOL) on the top of you berral
javascriptemoticon(':idea:')
IdeaI think
what arabidsquid is talking about could work and give the barrel a tight seal if done right. If you cut a piece of rubber longer than the pipe your trying to push into the other, and stuck some of that squishy insulation tubing you can get for pipes down inside the length of the tube, then put that rubber strip in the crack of the pipe, the insulation would support it while your trying to get it in. The part of the rubber thats not being squezzed into the pipe should be rubberbanded untill it is time for that part to be squezzed in. (you could probably get away with using a lubricant for the project.)It may give you a little bit of trouble but I think it would be interesting to see what it can do.
P.S airsoft rocksjavascriptemoticon(':wink:')
Wink
User avatar
thrasmussen
Private 4
Private 4
Posts: 80
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:53 pm

Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:26 pm

I would slime up tube "B" with some vegtable oil.
sjog
Specialist 4
Specialist 4
Posts: 440
Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:43 pm
Location: Marthas Vineyard

Donating Members

Mon Jan 01, 2007 10:27 pm

The safest way to rip( cut length way) PVC is on a table saw.
I've riped 3" to remove approx. 7/8", then heated it and squeezed the cuts together. This gave me the OD of a 2" coupling so that I could beef up my pneumatic at the sprinkler valve. With that size I riped more so
it would snap over the 2" coupler.

Lay the PVC against the table saw fence ,stand a 2x4 beside and clamp
from the inside of pipe to the outside of 2x4. When ripping the pipe it will clamp onto the blade just be aware of that.

I've heated PVC a few times in my wood stove .I'm sure that if the inner sleve was heated prior to and during sleveing it would be much easier!!!
Heating after riping makes the cut want to close up, making the sleveing process much less time consuming. No ,i hav'nt tried sleveing but I know it can,t be to hard when hot. I may prove my self wrong.-MURPHY'S LAW!!
BIKER180360
Private 3
Private 3
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Feb 06, 2007 12:12 pm

Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:21 pm

DOES THE LITTLE NOTCH WHERE U CUT LET AIR GET THROUGH? IF SO DOESN'T THAT TAKE AWAY SOME OF THE FIRE POWER.
User avatar
A-98
Corporal 5
Corporal 5
Posts: 921
Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:41 pm
Location: Santa Barbara, CA

Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:25 pm

No, because you make it really tight, or you tap a rod into it to expand it and fill the gaps.

and you need to stop typing in caps, it hurts my eyes :blackeye:
There are rules, and then there are hundred dollar bills.
Post Reply