I'm trying something were I have a air tank on the front part of the cannon and then have a pipe/ballvalve attached to it and to the combustion chamber (it also doubles as a carrying handle).
Still working on it, but it should be done soon. The tube thing at the top is the propane meter but isn't attached. Sorry about the crappy picture quality, but my camera sucks.
http://www.phexus.net/images/potatogun/
ways to air out a cannons
Just another idea that I use....being that I use a 4" clean-out cap on mine, but got tired of the on/off afetr each shot, I added a simple pipe nipple, gas valve and a female quick release for my air compressor and after each shot, I just open my gas valve for a few seconds at about 15 P.S.I and it works great - of course, only if you have a air compressor really close....or a portable air tank.
Although a bit hard to see, it's all I have - if you look at the back of the gun, you can see the valve and connector....
Although a bit hard to see, it's all I have - if you look at the back of the gun, you can see the valve and connector....
hwhw well another trich that I saw is to adapt your vacume cleaner to a schrader and when you fire your gun just connect your vacume and suck it all out. Ofcourse connect your vacume hose with a normal hose so you can connect it all together.
<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y107/LabMinky/labb.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
What the hell, i do that cuz my fans always break. It works really well. Your a bit of an asssmoch125 wrote:haha dude ur a moron but... whatever floats your boat. lolƒlying$pud wrote:This may sound a bit lame but once i've fired it i take off the cap and grab the barrel and chamber so its horizontel and spin around and around and around and around and around and around and around until i fall over.Jk. But i do spin around a couple of times
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... 980630.gif">
My website www.freewebs.com/potato_cannon/
My website www.freewebs.com/potato_cannon/
- deathtodeer666
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I opt for the 12 volt brushless computer fans myself. I either use a switch to manually operate the fan or a solid state timer that I normally set to run at about 13 seconds before automatically turning off. These small on-board fans eliminate a lot of extra weight or having to carry around additional accessories to vent your cannon. I have used some as small as 40mm.
Save your breath, use a fan.
Save your breath, use a fan.
Here's the easiest way to fan out a non-breech loader. Just open up the encap and plunge the potato down the barrel. The potato will push air through the chamber. Oh by the way, thx TaterJim for just repeating what I said.
Last edited by Atlantis on Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I just take out the clean out cap, push a tater down the barrel, that pushes the bad air out of the chamber.fuel ,,replace cap and fire.
Of course when I inject propane through a tire valve , I just use the same valve with compressed air to blow it out. I also have a little plastic pump I can use if I'm not near the shop.
Of course when I inject propane through a tire valve , I just use the same valve with compressed air to blow it out. I also have a little plastic pump I can use if I'm not near the shop.
I made this post on the Spudtech forum to explain how to use a check valve in a combustion gun for venting without it needing to hang off the back of a chamber, with no need for epoxy or screws, and if needed is easily replacable. This is the one I use on the <a href="http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... 5&">Proton Pack</a> (CBPL).
You use this as an end cap and attach an air blower (air mattress inflator). It will vent a chamber in about 3 seconds.
What I bought was a 4" female adapter, a 4x2" bushing, 2 2x1.5" bushings, 1.5" threaded sump pump check valve (found over by the sprinkler valves), and a 1.5"x3/4" bushing.
Take the 4x2 bushing and dremel out the stopper ring and glue the 2x1.5" busing INSIDE the 4x2" bushing,the other 2x1.5" bushing on the outside, and the 2x3/4" bushing into the OUTSIDE 2"x1.5" bushing. (My air blower needed this size bushing with a small length of 3/4" pipe inside the bushing to fit my blower nozzle. Other blowers may need different sizes combined with some piece of hose or pipe, whatever makes it fit. It doesn't need to hold any pressure so don't be reluctant to use duct tape if you have to.) A small chunk (about 1.5 inches) of 1.5" pipe is glued into the 1.5" socket on the INSIDE of the 4x2" bushing and then has the 1.5" female adapter glued to that. That assembly is then glued into the 4" male adapter.
To prepare the sump pump valve take a hack saw to the indicated mark (blue line) on the picture of the valve below. (You could actually go even lower if you want.) This is not neccessary but really makes it look better and gives more space in the chamber. After it is cut you can twist it into the 1.5" threaded adapter.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... .jpg"><img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... 2.jpg"><br>
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... .jpg"><img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... check4.JPG">
Upon curing this entire endcap is used instead of a regular cap. It is a bit more bulky but should never need to be removed unless in a case of emergency chamber repair (or an impromptu photo shoot...hah). It is much more pleasing to see than some other check valve assemblies I've seen, requires no screws/ epoxy/ multi-plastic bonding glue, and allows replacement of the valve for whatever reason may come up.
You use this as an end cap and attach an air blower (air mattress inflator). It will vent a chamber in about 3 seconds.
What I bought was a 4" female adapter, a 4x2" bushing, 2 2x1.5" bushings, 1.5" threaded sump pump check valve (found over by the sprinkler valves), and a 1.5"x3/4" bushing.
Take the 4x2 bushing and dremel out the stopper ring and glue the 2x1.5" busing INSIDE the 4x2" bushing,the other 2x1.5" bushing on the outside, and the 2x3/4" bushing into the OUTSIDE 2"x1.5" bushing. (My air blower needed this size bushing with a small length of 3/4" pipe inside the bushing to fit my blower nozzle. Other blowers may need different sizes combined with some piece of hose or pipe, whatever makes it fit. It doesn't need to hold any pressure so don't be reluctant to use duct tape if you have to.) A small chunk (about 1.5 inches) of 1.5" pipe is glued into the 1.5" socket on the INSIDE of the 4x2" bushing and then has the 1.5" female adapter glued to that. That assembly is then glued into the 4" male adapter.
To prepare the sump pump valve take a hack saw to the indicated mark (blue line) on the picture of the valve below. (You could actually go even lower if you want.) This is not neccessary but really makes it look better and gives more space in the chamber. After it is cut you can twist it into the 1.5" threaded adapter.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... .jpg"><img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... 2.jpg"><br>
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... .jpg"><img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploa ... check4.JPG">
Upon curing this entire endcap is used instead of a regular cap. It is a bit more bulky but should never need to be removed unless in a case of emergency chamber repair (or an impromptu photo shoot...hah). It is much more pleasing to see than some other check valve assemblies I've seen, requires no screws/ epoxy/ multi-plastic bonding glue, and allows replacement of the valve for whatever reason may come up.
<a href="http://www.launchpotatoes.com"><img src="http://www.launchpotatoes.com/images/up ... 2.PNG"></a>
http://www.LaunchPotatoes.com
http://www.LaunchPotatoes.com
Is that supposed to seem easier than the way I did it? Cuz it's not....
My thing is MADE for a matress inflator and involves no disconnecting.
My thing is MADE for a matress inflator and involves no disconnecting.
<a href="http://www.launchpotatoes.com"><img src="http://www.launchpotatoes.com/images/up ... 2.PNG"></a>
http://www.LaunchPotatoes.com
http://www.LaunchPotatoes.com
- rna_duelers
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If u want a cheap fan go 2 a computer store and ask for one thats no longe rin commision but still working,i got my fan for $2 and it works great.
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what about that canned compressed air to blow everything out after its shot. would that work?