No the reason I had trouble was beacause in Australia I am yet to find anyone who stocks Watermaster products. I found a valve that looked the same as yours. Question, does the Watermaster valve have a 4mm lip on the inside of the neck?Might this be why you had trouble with my tutorial?
“NO DRILL” Sprinkler Valve Pneumatic Modification
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- carlbelcher
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The valve that I modified while doing this how-to had about a 3/8" lip that the fitting threaded into nicely, and I've tested the modified valve to 125psi with no problems.
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That is my valve, it has the top of the neck cut off and the 3/8" male to 1/4" fem screwed into the adjusable part of the valve. Seen below.
Note: It's not fully screwed in so you can see the thread.
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No it doesnt go back in, mine didnt
Thanks for the reply. I did my mod this weekend, and when the chamber is pressurized to 35 PSI and I squeez the new valve on the mod vavle all the air comes out of the mod valve, and does not open the barrel valve. Do you have a clue?
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
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If your valve doesn't open properly it is because the pilot valve (blow gun) doesn't have a large enough orifice.
You can do one of three things:
One: Try a larger pilot valve such as a 1/4" or 1/2" valve.
Two: You can fill the hole left by the guide rod with epoxy then force a small nail or tack though the epoxy to create a smaller equalization hole.
Three: Take the old guide rod put it thought the hole, bend it into a "U" shape so that it stays in the diaphragm and then trim it to fit in the valve body.
You can do one of three things:
One: Try a larger pilot valve such as a 1/4" or 1/2" valve.
Two: You can fill the hole left by the guide rod with epoxy then force a small nail or tack though the epoxy to create a smaller equalization hole.
Three: Take the old guide rod put it thought the hole, bend it into a "U" shape so that it stays in the diaphragm and then trim it to fit in the valve body.
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The Small hole from the guide rod from my observation was to equalise the presure in the top of the diaphram and the chamber end of the valve.... Correct me if i am wrong but without the guide rod mine is doing fine with no leaks what so ever now.
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It depends on the flow of your pilot valve...
You're not blocking the air flow that equalizes the diaphragm you're just slowing it down, so that too much doesn't escape though the equalization hole.
You're not blocking the air flow that equalizes the diaphragm you're just slowing it down, so that too much doesn't escape though the equalization hole.
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Ok, so its ok to to leave it, but it is better to plug the hole and make a smaller one?
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It doesn't matter all you really need to do is slow down the flow of air.
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great tutorial man! ...all my life, i have been taught to fear flow control, that without flow control was the way to go.
...now thanks to you i can build spudguns without fear! thank you! thank you! thank you!
and btw...i've been... sleeping with ur grandma.
please nominate me for the drama king award.
thanks
...now thanks to you i can build spudguns without fear! thank you! thank you! thank you!
and btw...i've been... sleeping with ur grandma.
please nominate me for the drama king award.
thanks
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using the no drill method can the blow gun be located in the solenoid hole instead?
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