So i build my propane meter without a burnzomatic or any other valve before the tubing. What i am worrying about is if my tubing(very thick orange/black fuel tube) can hold the pressure of the propane bottle and can the two ends of the tubing hold it the pressure (used the metal clamps to secure) for long extended periods when i dont use the cannon.
What i am thinking about is adding a ball valve after the propane adapter and before the tubing. but this might look clumsey so im thinking about the burnzomatic adapter thing. i saw the tutorial on how to cut threads on the burnzo, but that scares me, expecially because if you mess up, its scrap metal. so i was looking around at what else i can do with a burnzo, and i saw pete's adv combustion cannon, he just took a burnzo and used a metal clamp to secure a tube onto the burnzo, will this hold? so,what should i do?? do a ball valve? or burnzo mod? or the pete burnzo?
Burnzomatic? and other adapters??
- MisterSteve124
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propane bottles don't have much pressure. There only like 90psi not like high pressures like c02 or anything.
- BC Pneumatics
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The highest I have seen a propane bottle is 160-170psi (Just off the edge of a 160psi gauge), but it can get higher if it is a hot garage, direct sunlight, etc.
Make sure that the hose is pressure rated to handle this much, or you will risk it rupturing. Keeping the propane bottle detached is the best option, but closing the valve is second best.
The most likely place to spring a leak is where the hose is attached to the torch head, that is why I use adapters with a 1/4" NPT thread on them, so a hose barb can be directly and safely attached.
Bottom line, <a>This is your safest bet.</a>
If you cannot remove the propane tank during storage, then add an inline ball valve before the hose barb.
Make sure that the hose is pressure rated to handle this much, or you will risk it rupturing. Keeping the propane bottle detached is the best option, but closing the valve is second best.
The most likely place to spring a leak is where the hose is attached to the torch head, that is why I use adapters with a 1/4" NPT thread on them, so a hose barb can be directly and safely attached.
Bottom line, <a>This is your safest bet.</a>
If you cannot remove the propane tank during storage, then add an inline ball valve before the hose barb.
Last edited by BC Pneumatics on Sat Oct 20, 2007 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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yea it will hold the pressure with no problem. i wouldnt worry about it. even if does bust open (again, very unlikely), the worst thing that would happen is it would leak out and you have to spent another 50 cents on hose.
my first meter was simular to what you are describing and it worked fine.
my first meter was simular to what you are describing and it worked fine.
"physics, gravity, and law enforcement are the only things that prevent me from operating at my full potential" - not sure, but i like the quote
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
- BC Pneumatics
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Actually, the worst thing to happen would be the propane filling his garage until it found a pilot flame or another ignition source. At this point it would be entirely possible to blow up a portion of his house.
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ur edit just answered my question...hahah thanks
BC, im not using the torch head, pete zaria uses that, i have hose barbs on mine.
ahhh, okok so what i am hearing from you guys is that i really dont need a valve before the tubing. i know that the tube can handle 210psi, and from what BC is saying, the clamps should be fine as long as i have hose barbs that connects the tubing. am i correcto?
yes i am very afraid of that, exactly the reason why i am asking..haha
heres the exact propane meter i built
http://www.bcvids.com/store/product_inf ... ucts_id=69
my first question was that if i should add a valve right after the propane adapter, and if so, what type of valve.
BC, im not using the torch head, pete zaria uses that, i have hose barbs on mine.
ahhh, okok so what i am hearing from you guys is that i really dont need a valve before the tubing. i know that the tube can handle 210psi, and from what BC is saying, the clamps should be fine as long as i have hose barbs that connects the tubing. am i correcto?
yes i am very afraid of that, exactly the reason why i am asking..haha
heres the exact propane meter i built
http://www.bcvids.com/store/product_inf ... ucts_id=69
my first question was that if i should add a valve right after the propane adapter, and if so, what type of valve.
Last edited by cwazy1 on Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
but if he is like me then he unscrews the bottle before he puts it away. i meant that it would happen outside when he was using it.BC Pneumatics wrote:Actually, the worst thing to happen would be the propane filling his garage until it found a pilot flame or another ignition source. At this point it would be entirely possible to blow up a portion of his house.
"physics, gravity, and law enforcement are the only things that prevent me from operating at my full potential" - not sure, but i like the quote
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
you know you are not an engineer if you have to remind yourself "left loosy righty tighty"
- BC Pneumatics
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A ball valve wouldn't hurt. I have a couple meters I use like the one you linked to, and they are fine as is. At least, I have never had a problem, and I am not particularly careful with my cannons.
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- spudgunnerwryyyyy
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Again it should hold the pressure over time but if liquid propane get into the hose for any reason it will leak almost all of the time. Ball valve will hold it forever unless of course liquid propane froze the seals.
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