This is my first and it went through many changes. I have a 3" chamber that's about 115.5 cubic inches and my barrel is about 34.5" @ 1 1/2 dia. It started out using hair spray but I couldn't stand the mess. After trying every aerosol I could find the best was my wife's Suave deodorant. I then switched to propane with a meter pipe that was not mounted on the gun. It utilized a tire fill valve and the gun had a Schrader valve that was for boilers in the end cap. After a few shots I mounted the meter pipe on the gun.
Being tired of misfires I installed a combustion fan which dramatically improved performance and reliability but increased the noise. The batteries and switch are in the horizontal handle on the left side. This is my next mod; to quiet my cannon and to improve performance. I will change my cb ratio from about 1.5:1 to aprox .7:1 but will do this with either a 2", 2.5" barrel or both. Good thing I used a threaded adapter. I plan on 1 more gun but it will be with a 4" chamber and electronic spark and a fan.
Here are more pics....if you look at "SideView Left" & SideView Left 2" I used an extra doorbell button I had for my fan switch. The wire exits @ the bottom then wired to the fan through the combustion chamber. The batteries are stored in the "T" adapter which I had sealed with a cap. I took a few practice shots to make sure it stayed in place.
RearView Fan shows the fan which I had to mount there. I wanted it further in but this fan was free so beggars can't be choosey. It also explains the (3) 9volt batteries which I wired in series. It's a 24vdc fan so 27volts was close enough.
The "Igniter" pic shows the BBQ igniter which I had to "Gorilla Glue" in place because I couldn't find any that had a nut. I had a lot of problems with wires arcing and not producing a good spark. That’s why I want to try the electronic on the next one.
Thanks for the interest. No one I know appreciates the time and effort I put in this thing. I was beginning to think I came into this too late judging by the dates of posts on some of the other forums. I'm glad to see that this isn't a diminishing hobby and I'm glad that SPUDFILES was brought to my attention. Thanks.......
My launcher
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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very impressive for a first launcher, nice and clean - damage pics?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Yes it quite is, and alot of improvements. Lets see some action with it. 
4SPC, My 4" piston 3" porting cannon
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Memo:
Fix up copper cannon
Fix up 4SPC
Start Stirrup pump
Start Toolies piston bazooka
Good Job, can we see some pics from the other side (ie horizontal handle)
<a href="">DONT TAZE ME BRO.. DONT TAZE ME... AHHHH</a>Yea, that's definitely going to get you at least a tazer.
facebook.com/biggrib
WHOO I love it i always have a soft spot for combustions. I think i ill use that side handle in my next combustion if i ever get to it.
Coodude26 wrote:
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
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mark.f
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Looks like a good first launcher to me. I like how you sealed off your electronics and piezo from the chamber, while still making it almost look as if I've got to yell at you. 
If you're still having problems with the piezo, next time, add some rubber molded insulation around the ground lead when you hook the wire to it. Wrap it nice and tight with electrical tape, and you should be good. If it's still arcing, your insulation isn't good enough. You can either upgrade to some kV rated wire, (or spark plug wire), or do what I do. Use solid core copper doorbell wire. The stuff is EXTREMELY low on resistance, so it's less likely to arc, even if you've got two lengths of it right next to each other.
If you're still having problems with the piezo, next time, add some rubber molded insulation around the ground lead when you hook the wire to it. Wrap it nice and tight with electrical tape, and you should be good. If it's still arcing, your insulation isn't good enough. You can either upgrade to some kV rated wire, (or spark plug wire), or do what I do. Use solid core copper doorbell wire. The stuff is EXTREMELY low on resistance, so it's less likely to arc, even if you've got two lengths of it right next to each other.
Well, it's not separated. When I went out to buy a ignitor I couldn't find one that had a nut to secure it and I didn't think it was necessary after looking at other launchers. Have you heard of any failing? If so I guess I could seal it like I did with the battery compartment - with a cap pushed in and glued. I can probably install 2 brass screws through the cap for a arc point.