Inline airsoft Tippmann C3 design

[auxiliary]

I came up with an inline and airsoft version of Tippmann C3. Here's the C3:



What makes my design different from the C3 is that the check valves that allow in fuel and air, are on either side to make way for the barrel. The velocity can be regulated by the blow forward loading mechanism (complements to Clide) instead of having a separate sprung piston. The piston is to be moved by the trigger (enabling semi-auto). And lastly, its inline and airsoft!

In the diagrams, it appears that the ammo/propane inlets are on the opposite side of the air inlet. Actually the ammo inlet is pointing down as shown, but the air/propane inlets are supposed to be on either side of it, pointing out to the sides.

All of the aluminum to copper/brass/aluminum components will be brazed together with this stuff: http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... 8848846624

And here are the phases:

[pocket]

Yet another intense design that will send the BB one way and your hand the other... i like it design should work so propane and air u say? step up to oxy-acetylene then you'll be talkin u sure that brazing your materials together will be structurally sound? i guess its better than duck tape.

[Lentamentalisk]

If by "All of the aluminum to copper/brass/aluminum components will be brazed together," you mean "will be machined on my skilled machinist's new lathe, to within .001m accuracy," then I think it could work if you pulled the pump back at exactly the correct speed, and the inlet air pressure doesn't drop more than 5% over the course of the entire game.
I am not trying to be negative, but you design has many sources of problems that the T3 doesn't, unless I am completely misunderstanding your design. First of all, your design lets in equal amounts of propane and air, assuming your air source is at approximately 120-180psi (depending on the temperature.) The combustibility of propane is greatly reduced if you are even off by more than a few % from the 1:20 stoichiometric ratio. Second, using a pizo over and over and over, as is used in airsoft, is just not going to last very long, so I would suggest a coil and a battery.

If you can deal with these issues though, more power to ya!
Good Luck.

[auxiliary]

Thanks for the responses. To make the piston, I have .25" aluminum sheet that will be drilled out as circles, then I will aluminum braze them together, and machine them on my drill-on-a-vice lathe. This may sound shady, but I don't think my problem with leaks will stem from a slightly imperfect piston, because of the o-rings.

The rate at which the propane and air is withdrawn through the check valves will be regulated by the strength of the springs that push them down. Naturally I will have the propane spring stronger and use the Mr. Heater regulator to adjust from there. By the way I think that the C3 uses reed valves (kind of like a check valve) to draw in the metered amount of propane and the air outside of the gun.

I don't think the speed at which I pull the trigger thus pulling back the piston will matter if the piston is a 100% seal and the check valves operate smoothly.

I won't be using a piezoelectric igniter (I was too lazy to draw an electric one in MS paint). I will use the electric BBQ igniter mod that STHORNE came up with and set up the contacts at the right position behind the trigger.

I hope that clears up some questions of yours.

[ramses]

he is saying that your propane isn't metered. the C3 uses a spool valve, yours doesnt. use a spool valve, and you should be good.

[auxiliary]

I guess I was being lazy by implementing a check valve fuel injection system just because it could be made so easily and fits in perfectly with the design, but I guess I should incorporate a spool valve to stay on the safe side and so I can use higher propane pressures which are easier to regulate.