Show us your pneumatic spud gun! Discuss pneumatic (compressed gas) powered potato guns and related accessories. Valve types, actuation, pipe, materials, fittings, compressors, safety, gas choices, and more.
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saefroch
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Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:30 pm
That's kinda sadly low for a homemade pump...
If you rap your pump like I do you should be able to get 587 at least 
But it's a lot better than what most floor pumps can manage!
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:38 am
POLAND_SPUD wrote:ohh btw am I the only person who has noticed that D_Hall looks almost exactly like Peter from the Family guy ?

lol what?
He's a lot less portly, and lacks the testicular appendages for a chin
More serious than that is that you have 12 bore sabots and yet fired
paintballs! We demand handfuls of nails/nuts/bolts etc! Against large sheet metal targets

hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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mark.f
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Sun Mar 13, 2011 3:06 am
Well I figured paintballs would be better at showing power against soft targets. Of course darts/steel projectiles will sail right through, but there's just something satisfying about blowing bits of your targets about 20' away and creating a fine mist of Budweiser that lingers like fog, all with a ~3.5g paintball, that can't be denied.
Also, to be honest I could get the gun to 400 PSI, but it would just take a ridiculous amount of time. Maybe I can incorporate both 400 PSI and better ammunition in the next video?
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:27 am
mark.f wrote:Well I figured paintballs would be better at showing power against soft targets. Of course darts/steel projectiles will sail right through, but there's just something satisfying about blowing bits of your targets about 20' away and creating a fine mist of Budweiser that lingers like fog, all with a ~3.5g paintball, that can't be denied.
Fair enough
Also, to be honest I could get the gun to 400 PSI, but it would just take a ridiculous amount of time. Maybe I can incorporate both 400 PSI and better ammunition in the next video?
In this day and age shouldn't you be looking at fridge compressors?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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mark.f
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Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:05 am
I've been looking for one, actually. The search has been unsuccessful so far, though.
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Zeus
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Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:17 pm
In regards to your pump, just see my sig.
Very nice work, as you have 12 gauge (I think bore is correct, gauge sounds better though) wads, can I suggest firing shot against a launched target. (Slow clay pidgeon up close)
/sarcasm, /hyperbole
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mark.f
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Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:38 pm
urgle the danish cow wrote:great job. the past month i have been thinking of something very similiar so thank you
Thanks. Glad I could be of some technical assistance.
Zeus wrote:Very nice work, as you have 12 gauge (I think bore is correct, gauge sounds better though) wads, can I suggest firing shot against a launched target. (Slow clay pidgeon up close)
Better ammunition is definitely part of future testing. So far the most aggressive I've gotten with ammo were marbles and random zinc hardware.
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm
Zeus wrote:12 gauge (I think bore is correct, gauge sounds better though)
I think it's a British/American thing. I prefer bore, unless you mean 12 of
these 
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Crna Legija
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Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:42 am
id prefer 12 of them any day, imagen my cannon production rates then.

'' To alcohol... The cause of, and solution to, all of life's problems.”
--Homer Simpson
Add me on ps3: wannafuk, 8/11/11 cant wait
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mark.f
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Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:28 pm
Thanks!
It's 3/4" type L copper. The pump head (piston) is double o-ringed and seals 100% in the 3/4" tube. I could have eliminated a check valve in the construction by using a floating o-ring (like on the main valve's piston), but I went for simplicity and used two check valves in opposite orientations at the bottom for intake and discharge. Other than that, the pump shaft is 1/4" threaded rod which is used to construct the pump head and attach the handle, and the threaded rod is sleeved in 5/16" stainless tubing to reduce flexing and prevent any scarring of the pump body's ID from the threads. The piston is designed so that part of the nylon "plug" on the head and the nut on the bottom will hit the steel bushing at the bottom of the pump and prevent the o-rings from exiting the bottom of the 3/4" tube. Up top, I simply drilled a 5/16" hole in a 3/4" CPVC (same socket ID as copper fittings) cap which is simply electrical taped on to prevent the pump head from exiting the top of the 3/4" tube.
Any more questions ask. I could post some more pictures.
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mark.f
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Thu Mar 17, 2011 10:48 pm
Yes. The two at the base of the pump are in opposite orientations (with the intake angled up to prevent drawing in dirt/etc.). Probably should zip tie some foam around it but I haven't gotten to that yet.