Lil' Shatterhand buildlog

[wyz2285]

I'd like to know more about how to satin/oil a stock, making it waterproof and shiny First what's the name for the oil used to coat the stock? I mean something that I can accurately translate to Portuguese. I used to use fine varnish as that's the only thing I found...

[Gippeto]

Thanks for the tip Gippeto..Don't know where to get nitric acid though..

Don't need it.

Warm up 2 ounces of 3% hydrogen peroxide and mix in as much sea salt as it'll take. Add a 1/4 teaspoon of white vinegar and you're ready to go.

The solution is easy to make, and works well on most steels...not so well on 4130.

Other than the solution, the process is the same....rust, boil, card...repeat.

Be patient...can take 3-4 cycles before you start to see a permanent color change after carding.

[Brian the brain]

I used cutting oil and shoe-polish.

I don't know what the real stuff is called.
When it's all done I'll coat it with a hard varnish, just like Old Shat.


I was kinda showing off two solid nights of woodwork...
For those interested...new pictures on page 4...

Edit: I'm sorry Gip.
Wat do you mean by card?
Where can I find a how to on this method?

All I found online about slow rust blueing was something involving filings or nails and two types of acid.

[wyz2285]

I was kinda showing off two solid nights of woodwork...
For those interested...new pictures on page 4... Rolling Eyes

I know how hard it is been there done that but they never stay good because of the finish.
It's looking great, will you keep the front stock full length or will the barrel stick out a little?

[Brian the brain]

I just love the long stock!
I plan on having the front stock extended with a brass piece holding the ramrod and I'd like it to stick out further than the barrel just a bit.

That will make it look very beefy.
If done right that is. You'll see.

[jakethebeast]

Hehe this ones coming to be even nicer than i though, great work BtB!

And Wyz, i have de-varnished few rifle stocks and coated them with Danish oil, same stuff that i use with my knives

[Gun Freak]

I am bowing down to <s>you</s> my computer screen.

Great woodwork. I would personally not extend the wood beyond the barrel but hey, not my gun.

Looks like a high quality version of one of those toy flintlocks you get at the Pirates of the Caribbean gift shop in Disney world... Except it works.

"Oh god more praise from Freak", thought wyz2285.

[wyz2285]

Looks like a high quality version of one of those toy flintlocks you get at the Pirates of the Caribbean gift shop in Disney world... Except it works.

I actually thought about converting one to a co-axial

"Oh god more praise from Freak", thought wyz2285.

Better stop these jokes if you want to be a "close friend"

[Gun Freak]

I actually thought about converting one to a co-axial

I wanted to use one for a hammer valve gun but couldn't find mine from 10 years back

Better stop these jokes if you want to be a "close friend"

Doesn't sound like you really want that barrel hahaha!

[Gippeto]

Wat do you mean by card?
Where can I find a how to on this method?

All I found online about slow rust blueing was something involving filings or nails and two types of acid.

Barrel should be sanded as fine as you want...sand along the length of the part. Some folks say finer than 320 grit is a waste of time...others disagree. Either way, the part needs to be absolutely squeaky clean with not a trace of oil anywhere. A good scrub down with acetone seems to be the norm...handle with gloves only from this point on.

Laurel Mountain Forge makes a barrel brown solution that cuts through a small amount of oil...allowing handling by hand. Good product, and available from Track of the Wolf. Keeping things grease free is still your best bet. When the part is "clean", water will not bead but rather sheet off.

The rust bluing solution is applied to the surface with a bit cotton rag (what I use) VERY sparingly...just enough to dampen the surface, it should not run.

Then it is allowed to form a layer of rust. Some folks hang the pieces in a room with higher humidity (bathroom), some folks use a humidity box. Once the surface has a coating of red iron oxide, it's time to convert that red iron oxide to black iron oxide.

I use a vertical conversion tank. With barrels, I plug the muzzle and suspend the barrel from the breech end. I don't boil the parts per se...I boil the distilled water in a kettle and pour it into a piece of 2" abs pipe with a cap cemented on to it. Insert the barrel leaving the transfer port still out of the water and leave it a few minutes.

A good idea to make sure the kettle holds enough water to fill the pipe. wink.gif

Pull the part out and dry it off..let cool slightly...it'll be black now if all is well. Card off the loose black iron oxide with a piece of old denim or DEGREASED 0000 steel wool...rub HARD. Take as much off as you can.

Repeat the process, maintaining faith.(the hard part) The color will deepen with repeated cycles...usually takes 3 cycles before it's easy to see. Keep going...I usually end up doing 12 cycles.

When you've reached a point where you're happy with the color, give the barrel a good scrub down with baking soda and hot tap water...then dry.

While the barrel is still hot, rub it down with a good paste wax...let it dry. Buff the heck out of it, re apply the wax and buff it again. Don't need power equipment, elbow grease is adequate. The wax will fill any open pores in the finish and add a bit of shine. Doesn't show finger prints either. wink.gif

Small note, as I do things, from the transfer port to the breech end of the barrel does not get blued...I do not apply solution there either. Not an issue for me when it's hidden by the receiver.

A pretty basic rundown, but should give you some idea of the process. Suggest doing some research and playing with a piece of scrap or such first. happy.gif

For a trial effort, you can make a rusting solution consisting of: 2oz 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4tsp white household vinegar and as much sea salt as will dissolve into the solution. This solution works quite well on most steels I've tried it on...not so well on 4130.

HTH

This is the .32 pcp just after I completed rust bluing. The barrel and receiver were done with the hydrogen peroxide/vinegar/sea salt solution exclusively. The pressure tube was "mostly" done with the same solution, but would not go past a dark grey. Three further cycles with the Laurel Mountain product brought it to this point.

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[jackssmirkingrevenge]

Brian, I think you'll like this.

[Brian the brain]

Thanks JSR...but I've been following his work since I found him on Youtube.
I looked up "Homemade leveraction airgun"

So...clearcoat is drying...and I still need to do some finishing touches on the paint..

At my son's request I went for the aged metal look.
...too bad..I had that triggerguard shining like a mirror..
But it looks pretty cool.

I got some brass screws for the triggerguard and for the hammer aswell.
In my painting frenzy I smeared paint all over the brass parts, like the receiver and trigger, but I can get that off tomorrow and restore the brass to its former shine.

Oh...and I engraved the sideplate...sanded the stock down to the final shape..and used a conical drillbit to widen the muzzle...and redid the inside triggermechanism..made a triggerguard, polished it and then cut it into the wood...made a halfcock safety..shortened the tail on the hammer...increased flow on the pilotvalve...and...well...I've been busy!

[wyz2285]

I was wondering how does the half cock safety work since your lever action...
BTW I knew somebody would go for the aged metal look suits it well!

[Brian the brain]

Like Elvis said:
I'm caught in a trap...and I can't get out...

The first notch traps the trigger.It can only be released by pulling back the hammer.
In firing position, there is no lip to trap the trigger.

[Gun Freak]

Very cool safety!! I'm in complete awe

When will you bless us with a video?