Show us your pneumatic spud gun! Discuss pneumatic (compressed gas) powered potato guns and related accessories. Valve types, actuation, pipe, materials, fittings, compressors, safety, gas choices, and more.
Hi all.
This is my 5.5 mm pellet air gun i made last summer. The paint wear off a bit, need a new paint job . It runs on 100-120 psi, QDV valve, PVC air chamber. Has a lot off power, pellets easily penetrates through cans and other stuff. This is my second build. I'm really happy about it Making a wooden foregrip (Brian the brain thanks for advise).
So how is it?
Video:
[youtube][/youtube]
Attachments
Old look
Fancy bolt :D listening to advice
Added metal plate on the back off the stock
New look
Last edited by jrrdw on Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:27 am, edited 5 times in total.
Reason:Fixed video.
Thanks for the kind words
jackssmirkingrevenge http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/paca-mk ... 21703.html in fact this is exactly where i found the valve design. But i modified it a bit: placed a spring in it and made a different trigger mechanism with a lever.
BAR hmm could be a good look for my next project i working on.
Looks Fantastic! I'm trying to make a Semi-Auto golf ball launcher. With the main action being barrel movement. Kinda like the M82A1 or the AN-94. But I cant figure it out. And that gun looks alot like the BAR.
Thanks for compliments.
Added a diagram of the valve.
Loading mechanism is very simple you will see it how it works in the picture.
Blue the metal would be awesome but i have never done that before, need some research
FPS ? i have no idea how many, since i don't have a chrony sorry
Attachments
Loading mechanism barrel slides front when i move the bolt
Bluing specifically refers to the treatment of steel:
Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4)
You can blacken brass, but it is a different process:
A black or oxidized surface on brass is produced by a solution of carbonate of copper in ammonia. The work is immersed and allowed to remain until the required tint is observed. The carbonate of copper is best used in a plastic condition, as it is then much more easily dissolved. Plastic carbonate of copper may be mixed as follows: Make a solution of blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) in hot water, and add a strong solution of common washing soda to it as long as any precipitate forms. The precipitate is allowed to settle, and the clear liquid is poured off. Hot water is added, and the mass stirred and again allowed to settle. This operation is repeated six or eight times to remove the impurities. After the water has been removed during the last pouring, and nothing is left but an emulsion of the thick plastic carbonate in a small quantity of water, liquid ammonia is added until everything is dissolved and a clear, deep-blue liquid is produced. If too strong, water may be added, but a strong solution is better than a weak one. If it is desired to make the solution from commercial plastic carbonate of copper the following directions may be followed: Dissolve 1 pound of the plastic carbonate of copper in 2 gallons of strong ammonia. This gives the required strength of solution.
The brass which it is desired to blacken is first boiled in a strong potash solution to remove grease and oil, then well rinsed and dipped in the copper solution, which has previously been heated to from 150° to 175° F. This solution, if heated too hot, gives off all the ammonia.
The brass is left in the solution until the required tint is produced. The color produced is uniform, black, and tenacious. The brass is rinsed and dried in sawdust. A great variety of effects may be produced by first finishing the brass before blackening, as the oxidizing process does not injure the texture of the metal. A satisfactory finish is produced by first rendering the surface of the brass matt, either by scratch-brush or similar methods, as the black finish thus produced by the copper solution is dead —one of the most pleasing effects of an oxidized surface. Various effects may also be produced by coloring the entire article and then buffing the exposed portions.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
tigerblues28 wrote:Hahah. Yeah they're two different animals.. Another hobby of mine ( constructing bamboo fly fishing rods) includes blueing of nickel silver often.
Nice, we have an off-topic section if you want to show us your work
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
. It runs on 100-120 psi, QDV valve, PVC air chamber. Has a lot off power, pellets easily penetrates through cans and other stuff. This is my second build. I'm really happy about it 
Making a wooden foregrip (Brian the brain thanks for advise).
fantastic.
hmm could be a good look for my next project i working on.
